Back on the road again, but first another great breakfast in the sun in the courtyard. I had to get the bike out of the courtyard up a wobbly ramp into a seriously busy road. I managed this but for some strange reason my nerves and bottle today are totally shot. I am as nervous as hell on the bike, which is weird seeing as I have ridden 45,000km and today my bottle has gone. So I made my way carefully into the Cusco traffic it felt like everyone wanted the piece of road that I happened to be occupying at that moment. I guess that guy’s accident and all the tall stories had got to me so how do I resolve this? So my solution which is a really blokey type resolution. Get aggressive so before you know it I am blaring my horn at anyone and anything that dares comes near me and effing and blinding shouting at all the taxi drivers and bus drivers that seem to be driving aimlessly all over the road. Not that this has any effect on there driving but makes me feel better and slowly my confidents returns and before you know it I am clear of Cusco back in the mountains back in the groove as there is less traffic once you clear city limits.
Destination is Puno its gorgeous except it decides to rain again on and off so on with the wet weather gear and warm gloves on as I have some seriously high passes to get over. A great ride even in the wet scenery is stunning even though sometimes I had no feeling in my fingers from the cold. I finally hit a town called Juliaca, one word to describe this place “shit-hole”. It was awful and the roads the worst I have seen on this trip it was like driving on the surface of mars the whole ring road (I am guessing this is a ring road) had been dug up and then left. Huge potholes and as it had raining so the potholes full of water so huge puddles of which you had no idea how deep they where so I tried to go round them but this was not always possible and this would be just about manageable on your own but as this was a town your loony motor taxi’s and crap bus and taxi driver’s all trying to weave there way through this mayhem throw in all the pedestrian’s into the mix and I must say this was my worst experience of the trip so far and I made myself a promise that I would not come back this way. A short run into Puno which was not much prettier than Juliaca so I am already not liking it I was expecting a nice town on the shores of lake Titicaca not this brown blot on the landscape. I found the hotel I was looking for and checked in the usual hassle with the Internet (not working) and then I went for a walk to see if I could find the positive in this town. I walked down to the lake where they’re where 100’s of tour boats for the trips to the various reed islands. I am in tourist hell mmm not looking good so go for some dinner and back to my room where there is a note from Alex and Andrea who are in town to but I missed them for dinner I will try and touch base with them in the morning.
So its decision time do I do one of those tours and go and see those floating reed islands or do I head for Arequipa and get my tyres sorted. Easy decision really I had no desire to go on mass organised boat trip to gawp at some folk living an alternate lifestyle that was probably practical originally but my guess is that now its purely for the tourist $ so I am heading back into the mountains I may regret this decisions but I did not fancy being a tourist for the day. Another decision I need to make is whether or not to go to Bolivia or not and that means coming back via Lake Titicaca or figuring out another route. A & A are in town as there is a Bolivian Consulate here and they need a visa so if successful they are going through Bolivia me I will decide in Arequipa once I have sorted me tyres.