Oaxaca to Santo Domingo Zanatepec, Tuesday, 30 October 2012, Day 119

What are you looking at!

I was feeling a bit down this morning I am not sure why it could be that I have not spoken to anyone since I left Houston other than transactional conversations and since I have been in Mexico conversations are even more limited. Or it could be alcohol withdrawals, as I have not had a drink for 8 whole days!

Feeling a bit lonely which is unusual for me so I need to come up with a solution for this and fast I have a couple of ideas in the pipeline.

Today went a long way in putting me in a better mood a glorious day in the saddle. I had a chat with the car park attendant who spoke some English which was pleasant and just telling him what I am up to lifts my spirits as when you put it into perspective this is an opportunity of a lifetime what I am doing but I am only human and even a trip like this can get to daunting for me when I think how far I still have to go.

Suck it up you ponce!

Got lost leaving Oaxaca the road I wanted was full of riot police and camera crews so I decided did not want to get entangled in that. I finally cleared the town got some petrol and some breakfast and hit the road. For the next 200km it was bend after bend corner after corner twist and turn after twist and turn. I think you get the idea biking heaven little to none other traffic except the odd lorry to past which were treated as mobile chicanes. It can be difficult to pass other traffic as there are very few straights and I do not have the ability to see round blind corners so you can be stuck behind them for while. Mostly they work with you to get you past but sometimes that is not always possible. So this is were those god-awful speed humps come into their own as the slower moving vehicles come to a practical stop at these and I can be over the bumps a lot quicker as I can slow down quicker and accelerate quicker so many an overtake done today whilst bouncing over speed bumps.

Nice Roads

Not to hot weather dull and overcast which was nice and the villages further apart so less speed bumps. So a good day to lift my spirits the road not perfect as this is still Mexico so all sorts wildlife and domestic life wondering over the roads and rough has hell in places to keep you on your toes. After the mountains hit a flat bit nearer the coast and it was every so windy and looks like it is always windy there as there where thousands of windmills as far as the eye could see. Not many of them where turning probably out of the safety window for them so out of the spec for running them makes you wonder how practical these thing really are. (Do not get me wrong I am a big fan of alternate energies but sometimes I do wonder how efficient the options chosen really are)

It was getting hot now I was out of the hills but still dull and looked like rain but in fact it was just getting dark. I had forgotten how far south I am and it gets dark at 5.45pm on the dot and I am not used to that so need to find somewhere to stay quick before it get dark. Problem is I am in the middle of nowhere no big towns or obvious places to stay and the next town I was aware of is about 50km away and it would be pitch black by then and I do not fancy riding on these roads in the dark. Fortunately I saw a sign for a Hotel pulled over just as it was getting dark. In the middle of nowhere but a reasonable price so I was setting up camp there for the night.

Allegedly it had a restaurant as well but this was deserted I think I am the only person staying here. So ask for the menu they do have one but they do have chicken. I am sick of chicken as it all you can seem to get here. They said they have some meat but they did not seem that keen on it so I asked to see what they had got as the conversation was bad due to my lack of Spanish. So I was shown into the kitchen, which was probably not the wisest thing to do, as ignorance often is bliss. The meat looked disgusting, as did the chicken. They had some prawns but god knows how old these where and I did not fancy risking them. I spotted some eggs and some rice so asked for 2 fried eggs and rice with soft tacos and a coke. So that was dinner sorted and I do like a fried egg every now and again.

Not much else to do, as this was a Hotel in the middle of nowhere on the side of a busy road so I retired to my room for the usual upload photos update blog do some planning for the next day and read me book and before you know it is bedtime.

A couple of days ago I was sitting having a coffee at a petrol station when a car pulled up and this very young lad gets out and goes across to my bike to have a look and then he strokes it which I thought was great I have never seen anyone stroking a bike before but I think she deserves it as she doing a great job. I often find myself patting her on the tank and thanking her for a great day and today was one of those so a pat and a stroke for me bike today it was good bike day 🙂


3 thoughts on “Oaxaca to Santo Domingo Zanatepec, Tuesday, 30 October 2012, Day 119

  1. Sjoerd Bakker

    I am quite enjoying reading your blogs but am puzzled by the mad bee-line pace you are setting for yourself. I think you are trying to cover far too much ground in each day and are thus missing much of the great scenery and stuff along your route. Perhaps you “saw it all ” in your bus tour of Mexico those years ago, but I doubt it.
    ( As a side note it would be nice for information sake for others not familiar with Mexico and whatever country you are going to next , to mention the actual highway numbers which you follow. From your descrition of leaving Oaxaca city it could have been to anywhere, and only your end of day location clarifies where you went – via Mex 190 east down the spine of Mexico and along the Pacific- side plain)
    I sort of anticipate that your next blog will be from deep in Guatemala — and that would be a great pity as you will have raced by all the good stuff of Chiapas and the Yucatan area ,,things like
    San Cristobal,Palenque ,Uxmal, and other such Mayan sites and Tikal in Guatemala, not tro mention all the splendid motorcycle roads available connecting those points.
    As I said earlier, if you want some pointers send me an email and I will gladly provide some ideas for routes and stuf you may be unaware of.
    But the main thing I must emphasize is — do slow down your pace, 300km to 400km in a day is really the most you would want to comfortably cover in a day and still be able to claim you are actually seeing Mexico or Central America and beyond. Yes ,it is possible to travel farther each day but it will be hard work and exhausting. You will not be getting to Ushuaia anytime this year unless you plan on plugging through snow ,ice and winter weather down in South America in July and August. Pace yourself and get used to enjoying warm tropical weather ( still wearing the leathers???)

  2. Liesbeth

    Ik heb er nu pas aangedacht om ook je foto’s te bekijken. Ziet er mooi uit. Het is wel wat exotischer dan in Amerika, qua natuur en cultuur.
    Heb je eigenlijk nog haast om op tijd bij de boot vanuit Panama te komen of heb je daar een andere oplossing voor gevonden?

    1. Phillip Beckwith Post author

      Hoi Lies,
      Niet echte haast ik had een plek op de boot die ik oorspronkelijke in oog had op de 8 December kost mij iets meer omdat ik nu een dubbel bed heeft in plaats van een single maar het zou echt haasten geweest als ik op de boot van de 18 November moest halen. Ik ben redelijk snel door Mexico geflits omdat de problemen in Noord met al dat drugs oorlog gedoe and omdat ik redelijk snel wou beginnen met mijn Spaans taal les wat wegens taal gebrek had ik de gevoel dat ik veel miste dus hopelijk met een beetje meer taal kennis zal het reizen makkelijk woorden 🙂


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