Category Archives: Peru

Cuenca to Canoas de Punta Sal, Wednesday, 26 December 2012,Day 176

Why did the chicken cross the road? So that he did not get squashed by Daisy

Riding with Alex and Andrea today so this is first time this trip except for the run to catch he boat in Panama City that I am riding with someone else. That was riding with a larger group with just the two bikes this should be easier. I am trusting my GPS to get us out of town with no problems and then  to the border into Peru and for once it does not disappoint so I may finally have a map that I can trust 🙂

Hot day and nice run first through the mountains road a mixed bag of good roads to awful lots of landslides so lots of rocks and loose debris on the road and road works where they have ripped the top surface of and left it like that for the time being so reasonable progress but you still had to be wary.

Dusty rough roads

  

We came out of the mountains on to a flat coastal plain next to the Pacific passing through banana plantations on our way to the border. We wanted to fill up before crossing the border, as fuel is cheap as chips in Ecuador but the petrol stations closest to the border where all shut so I am guessing it is to stop folk doing cheap petrol runs from Peru. We drove back about 5km and were able to fill up there we adversely jumped a huge queue which I did not see as I pulled into the station so a bit of laugh with the attendant and the soldier which where present at all the petrol stations near the border and then onto the border.

banana anyone?

First to the Aduana in Ecuador to check the bikes out we nearly missed this as it was not clearly marked and here we met the Columbian Bogotá V-strom club who were with about 10 bikes or so and we where behind them in all of the queues crossing the border which slowed us up a bit

Then to immigration for me which was in the same building so you queued to exit Ecuador and the right next to that the queue to enter Peru. Fortunately very few people so this part went quite quickly and the onto the Peruvian Aduana. Where we ended up behind the large group of Columbian Bogota V-strom club again.

Philly and Daisy Fan club waving us out of Ecuador

This is where we heard about mandatory insurance for Peru first time I heard of this as this was not one of the countries on my list that I needed to buy extra insurance as in theory this was covered in my total central and south America insurance so I was planning to bluff my way through this one and they did not ask for it but Alex had to pay 35USD for a months insurance. My problem was that they had put my Nationality down as Ireland again and my VIN number was incorrect so asked them to correct it but they refused they just crossed it out so I asked for a signature on the changes they got all pissy and so did I as I was hot tired and sweaty but there is no use in me getting angry as they have all the cards So the guy rips up my paper work and give me a blank form which I have to fill in by hand and this time with the right information. So with a bit of help from my new Columbian friends I had the paperwork completed and written in my bad handwriting but I had all the stamps and signatures on it so me and Daisy are allowed into yet another new country Peru wow we are really ticking them of the list 🙂

This had all taken about 2 hours and it just gone 4pm so we made tracks for Mancora which was about 129km away but we had already figured we where not going to make it before it got dark so we started stopping at all the beach type resorts places asking for rooms. This is where Andrea was useful we would  pull up and she would jump of and go in and check the prices and say yay or nay and if nay we would roll on the next one. She was also had been the official photographer for the day so loads of photos taken of Philly and Daisy on the move.

Alex & Andreas Ecuador Photos

Alex & Andreas Peru Photos

Not much luck on finding something as it is very expensive along this coast and when we did one last try before we where going to try again to get to Mancora where we knew there were cheaper options.

We had a bungalow on the beach 10USD each and they kept the kitchen open for us so fried fish and rice on the beach watching the sun go down with a mad kitten for company. Perfect I could not ask for much more even debating that it is so nice here we may have a rest day here tomorrow and that is awfully tempting as I have had a tough couple of days.

Nice here may stay another day

  

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Canoas de Punta Sal,Thursday, 27 December 2012, Day 177

My travel companions for the last couple of days Alex and Andrea http://micadu.ro/en/

We got up reasonably early but I think the decision was made a lot earlier we are not moving on today we are staying here, as it is a lovely location right on the beach. So a totally do nothing day on the beach. Leisurely breakfast and a morning of internetting I have millions of extra photographs courtesy of Andrea my new official personal photographer problem is its going to take days to load them on to SmugMug.

Everyone working on their blogs.

Eventually we got enough energy to get a motortaxi (TukTuk) into the village late on the afternoon and we grabbed some late lunch earlier dinner. Unfortunately Andrea was not feeling well and was sick so this trip shortened and we went back to our beach home for the rest of the evening.

Nice rest day you do need one every now and again big mileage day tomorrow to compensate 🙂

Kitten with a foot fetish 🙂

And doggy with a broken leg cast is bigger than him 🙂

Canoas de Punta Sal to Huanchaco, Friday, 28 December 2012, Day 178

Been driving through the desert for days sand gets everywhere I mean everywhere!

Well after yesterday rest day  we were up at 6am ready for a long haul through the desert destination Huanchaco that is 640km away so hence the early start.

  

Early start mucho km today 🙂

Long day in the saddle and we arrived at 5pm in the evening 2 petrol stops 2 food stops and 2 pee stops but generally moving forwards. The idea for this big run is that it is not that interesting so lets crunch the miles out as quick as possible. It is a totally different landscape than what I have come through so far empty desert, desert with trees, sand dunes, rice and paddy fields, and loads of other agriculture, so not wonderful but interesting enough.

Gunnar and Daisy

Quick pee break.

quick lunch stop

We had address of an allegedly cool hostel but when we arrived they where surely and unhelpful so sod that life is to short for there attitude so we went of to find somewhere else we parked in a street me looking after the bikes and Alex and Andrea going round the places trying to find the best deal. Which is great for me we finally settle on place called Chimu Beach check in and go for a wander along the beach and down the back streets to find somewhere to eat. Please do not tell my mum that I have eaten fish for the last 3 days on the trot because as a kid I never would touch the stuff and I really was not a fan of fish but the stuff we been getting here is excellent and does not really taste like fish so hence me been able to eat it. Tonight I had ceviche, which I have also discovered that I like.

Nice little beach town to end up in at the end of hard day in the saddle

A long hard day no idea what we are doing tomorrow as there is not much of interest until we hit further south as far as we can see so it is onward and forward down south.

Huanchaco to Barranca, Saturday, 29 December 2012, Day 179

Famous Huanchaco reed boats

Today I got an E-mail from Johan Holtorf from Garmin-winkel.nl and they are refunding me my money for South America SD card that I purchased from them which was a complete duffer and out of date. They do not even want the old one back so my compliments to this shop for the excellent customer after service as I was not expecting anything so this is a nice result and when good things like this happen it should also be reported just as much as the bad for balance. Its a pity I got the duff old card in the first place however the good thing is they have rectified the situation so hats of to them for that 🙂 And the maps I have now seem to be working except they keep sending me down one way streets in the wrong direction but that I can live with.

Well I was just congratulating myself that the GPS was working when it throws another wobbly and we get us lost in Trujillio it keeps wanting us to do a U turn and go back 28km and will not offer anything else so we are back to asking directions stroppy little bastard of a machine.

Funny looking birds on the beach here!

We left Huanchaco after chatting with the 3 blokes who ran the hostel and a quick run along the beach to get some shots of the reed boats that the place is famous for and then we hit the road and this was going to be a short run after yesterdays marathon session  but you guessed it it turned into another rather long day. Through desert all day but this time hilly/mountainous so pleasant enough ride being continually sand blasted I have sand in place where the sun does not shine so it gets in everywhere. We kept on going when Alex signals he needs fuel and I was thinking the same thing and we had seen loads of petrol stations up until then and just when you need one they all disappear so our speed reduced drastically to try reduce fuel consumption and we finally find a station. I have no idea why I always find myself in this position as it is so easy to avoid my new mantra I must fill up more often so that I am not putting myself at risk of running out of fuel in the middle of nowhere. Funny thing is that there were two of us who made the same rooky mistake Homer Simpson Doh!

      

It was now later than planned so next exercise find somewhere to stay so with Alex and Andrea trying all the different hotels, hostels, etc.  And me looking after the bikes we ended up three of us in one room for a good price.

We went for a wander and some dinner I still have no idea what we are going to do for News Years Eve yet but that something that can be sorted  for tomorrow.

That elusive Romanian Cake Thief last spotted in Downtown Barranca

Barranca to Lima, Sunday, 30 December 2012, Day 180

Get a room!!!

A bit of a strange day first thing was that when I went to pack the bike the dog of the hotel had left us huge steaming present right outside the door nice and pongy!

We hit the road a short run into Lima which started a long way out of the center so running through the burbs or shanty towns dual carriage way but utter chaos people and car buses lorries and various other forms of transport all wanting that small bit of road that you where on. We had skipped breakfast so I was peckish and a bit light headed but not really a nice place to stop so we pressed on to an address we had of a Hostel. When we got there no room at the inn so we headed down the coast to another address we had which also had no room. Alex has had enough and is ready to go back to the Hilton, which we had also scoped as a possibility as he had a loads of points that he had accumulated as an Accenture consultant and he could get this free so we tried for an apartment but they only had rooms so A & A where going to stay there and we found Philly and Daisy a Hostel bed in Barranco which turned out to be a really cool place in a great neighbourhood.

Great walk along the cliff tops nice 🙂

Alex and Andrea headed of to posh Ville I will see them tomorrow. Joop who we had agreed to meet for New year had not checked in yet but I was not really expecting him as he was a good days ride behind us but I booked him a bed for tomorrow night. I did my laundry then had a great walk along the cliff tops from Barranco to Mira Flores and treated myself to a McDonalds and watched the sunset and then walked back to the hostel. I had been informed that it was a safe walk around  in the dark and it has security guards from all the posh houses all over the place. I got back at about 8.30pm and I had been walking for a good 5 hours so I was a bit tired and as I had handed in all my trousers to be washed  I was wearing my swimming trunks/ shorts and they are were not designed for walking in so I was suffering from some slight chaffing 😦 (to much info :-))

Mira Flores Building Art

I hung around the hostel chatting to folks and then beddy byes a sleep in and a nothing to do day tomorrow yes I need it

Should really give this a go

Lima, Monday, 31 December 2012, Day 181

New Year in Lima

I had a bit of a lie in which was nice and then a leisurely free breakfast, which was not bad for a hostel then on to the Internet, as I had been trying to locate some new tyres for Daisy, but the sizes we need are not readily available in Peru. I Have been offered some Pirellis in Arequipa from a Dutch bloke Lars who runs a motorcycle rental business down there and he has some available so that is a 90/90/19 for the front and a 140/80/17 for the back. Daisy needs 110/80/19 and 150/70/17 so the question is will what’s offered fit and work so it is on to the forums and e-mail to some people who I know may be able to offer advice on this dilemma and as usual when you ask multiple folk you get conflicting answers so I am still none the wiser so I will have a go to see if I can get the recommended sizes here in Lima as I had found some dealers and one was just round the corner so I tried there first but I could not found the place or the address I had was wrong.

Star wars Franchise is not overing any work to R2D2 so slumming it as a bin in Lima

So back to the hostel and more research and dialog and then Joop turned up and I had also been talking to Alex and Andrea and I had arranged to meet them for New Year Eve so I got Joop settled in then me and him walked to Mira Flores to try and find another tyre shop and get some dinner and then to meet up with the Romanians later at the Hilton. Long walk to the dealer I had got my trouser back from the laundry but yesterdays chaffing was acting up 🙂 Dealer had nothing in the sizes I wanted there was one rear road tyre that was the right size but I did not fancy running road tyres on the roads that where coming my way so I need some sort of off road capability so I decided that fate had decided what tyres I was getting are the ones offered in Arequipa he has a fleet of BMWF800GS running this combo and a mate who’s judgement and knowledge I trust said the offered combo should work it would be taller (that is all I need with my stumpy legs) and feel weird but doable so I may regret this decision but this can be rectified down the road if needed. The next question is have I got enough meat left on the existing tyres to do the 3000km to Arequipa and can I find a Suzuki Oil Filter in Peru and if I cannot is that a real disaster mechanically wise. All these questions can be dealt with next year it is time to say goodbye to 2012 so it is off to KFC for dinner and a beer for Joop and a Inca Cola for me (my latest soft drink addiction and yes I am still off the wagon so that’s 73 days without a drink :-)) watching the sun go down.

It does not really feel like New Years Eve ish so we head to the Hilton for a bit of posh and to meet up with Alex and Andrea. Hang around there posh room for a while then head down to bar as they have some complimentary drink vouchers and there is a live dance show going on so we hang around there for a while then head to the cliff overlooking the sea as we have been told fireworks are best seen from there.

Every one in national costume

Very pleasant New Years loads of folks and loads of fireworks and I was sober. We walked back to the Hostel and around Barranco so again I had walked miles again chatting with folks back at the Hostel and finally to bed late night it has been a while since I have been up this late.

Bye bye 2012 I lost a great job but look what I got in its place I am now riding down the Pan American Highway on me bike fulfilling a long time ambition so I guess 2012 was not so bad 🙂 I wonder what little surprises 2013 has in store for me.

Happy New Year faithful blog readers hope this is keeping you entertained if not tough titties 🙂

Lima to Huacachina, Tuesday, 1 January 2013, Day 182

Oasis in the Desert

So this the first post of 2013 not much different from the last post of 2012 I never understood the fuss made about a new year and new year resolutions you can change your life any day of the week or year why do it specifically today why do folks decide that this is the time for a change it beats me. So today started the same as most travel days on the road up shower, breakfast, pull kit together load bike pull bike out of awkward parking space the last two can be swapped if the place is really awkward plug in destination into GPS curse GPS as destination cannot be found hit road find fuel and or breakfast if not provided at place you are staying. So today start no different from many others on this trip.A bit slower as I am not in a hurry as I am not planning on going far today only to an Oasis in the Desert which is only 300km away.

Leisurely breakfast with Joop say Tata and I am heading out of Lima back into the Desert. Not sure that todays run was that interesting I have been in the desert for what seems to be ages there is sand everywhere. I roll into Huacachina at about 3pm its an Oasis in the middle of a desert surrounded by huge Sand Dunes and streets full of Mad Max buggy’s taking tourist on a blast in the dunes.

      

Loads of Mad Max Buggy taking folks into the Desert I walked!

I head for a Hostel I have the name off and check in there and it is the usual attempt to get double rate price for the bed as it was a public holiday but after a chat with me saying the fiesta was yesterday the price went back to normal so that 13.50 Sols or less than 5 EUR so that’s more like it.

I went for a walk in the dunes doing my usual impression of mad dogs and Englishman go out in the midday sun I walked quite away into the Desert getting funny looks from all the tourists on there Mad Max dune buggy excursions as they blasted past. I had fun mucking around in the Dunes except for all of the sand, which I have mentioned a couple of times it gets in everywhere.

Mad dogs and Englishmen!

I am having dinner when I spot Alex and Andrea it looks they had the same destination in mind as me so they join me and we agree to go and see the Nazca Lines together leaving at 7.30am in the morning not sure why agreed to that time but it is cooler at that time.

  

Curious as to what the Nazca lines will be like my expectations are low so hopefully will be a nice surprise 🙂